AGS:

The American Gem Society is a trade association which includes retail jewelers, independent appraisers, and other members of the jewelry industry. The American Gem Society Laboratories are one of the premier suppliers of diamond certifications. AGS certifications include an evaluation of the Cut of a diamond, which is currently not included by any other major gemological laboratory.

Alloy:

In the context of jewelry, the term Alloy is generally used to discuss the addition of metals to gold to add strength or modify the. Pure gold (24 karats) is very malleable, and generally not considered appropriate for jewelry with diamonds or gemstones. Metals such as nickel or copper are often added increase the strength of the gold, making it appropriate for jewelry intended for daily wear. Examples of gold alloys for strength would include 14 karat and 18 karat gold. Gold in its natural state is yellow, but through the addition of different metals can be created in every color imaginable.

Anniversary Band:

The anniversary band is a traditional gift given to celebrate milestones in a marriage. A typical anniversary ring consists of three or more diamonds, placed either in a channel or a prong setting. The eternity band is a form of the anniversary ring, where diamonds encircle the entire ring. In recent years the three diamond anniversary ring has become one of the most recognized anniversary band styles; the three diamonds to symbolize The Past, The Present, and The Future.

Appraisal:

In the context of jewelry, an Appraisal is a document prepared by a qualified individual to give an estimation of an item’s value. Appraisals, especially those used for insurance purposes, should be redone periodically as the value of an item may fluctuate over time as a result of the “Fair Market Value”.

Asterism:

Light rays form star-like effect in certain cabochon cut gemstones. They can be four-rayed, 6-rayed or, very rarely, 12.

Band Detailing:

An added feature or element to a ring or band.

Band Detailing Types:

Engraved - Decorating metal by cutting lines into the surface with a specialized engraver.

Milgrain - A band of metal that is decorated with tiny beads of metal.

Bracelet Types:

Bangle – A bracelet that generally slides over the wrist without expanding or opening. Bangle styles include cuff, expansion and hinged.

Charm Bracelet – Any bracelet that can be used to display charms. A charm bracelet has open links and often has a layered look, allowing for charms to be added over the owner’s lifetime to commemorate special events

Tennis Bracelet – This term is generally used to describe a thin, flexible, chain-like bracelet comprised of gemstones or diamonds in a uniform fashion.

Toggle Bracelet – Any bracelet which has a toggle clasp. A toggle clasp consists of a ring at one end and a short bar on the other; the bar is passed through the ring in order to securely attach the bracelet on one’s wrist.

Bridal Set:

A bridal set generally consists of a diamond engagement ring and a matching wedding band.

Brilliant Cut:

A traditional faceting or cutting style for diamonds which improves the optical effect. Developed in 1910, its characteristics are: round girdle, 32 facets plus the table on the crown or upper part of the diamond and 24 facets plus, sometimes a culet (point) on the pavilion-- the lower part.

The word "brilliant" used alone refers only to diamonds. On any other stone the name of the mineral must be used with it. For example, a "brilliant cut" citrine.

CTR - Center:

The weight of the center or focal stone in a piece of jewelry containing more than one stone.  

Cabochon:

This refers to a gemstone that is shaped and polished, instead of being cut and faceted. The most common form of a cabochon shape is an oval with a convex top and a flat bottom, a dome shape. The flat bottom allows for the gem to be set more easily. The cabochon cut is generally used for opaque gemstones or for gemstones that are generally considered to fragile or difficult to facet.

Calibrated:

As a result of most jewelry being manufactured, settings and mountings are designed to accommodate gemstones within specific tolerances. Gemstones that are cut to these specifications are called calibrated stones. Vacationers often purchase loose gemstones that they have difficulty having set because they are too wide, too narrow or too deep to set in a “standard” mounting.

Cameo:

A relief carving on gem materials, usually seen on shells or stones. 

Carat Weight

or Carat Total Weight (ctw) or

Gem Weight (TGW):

Carat weight refers to the actual weight of a single gemstone. In the case of diamonds, a one carat diamond weights 1/5^th of a gram. This is often expressed using a decimal system so that a ½ carat diamond would be referred to as a 50 pointer or a one carat diamond would be referred to as having 100 points. Please note that different gemstones have different densities, a 2 inch rock weighs more than a 2 inch piece of wood in the same size, which means that a one carat diamond and a one carat amethyst will not be exactly the same size.

If an item has more than one diamond the “Carat Total Weight” refers to the weight of all the diamonds added together.

Total Gem weight refers to the total weight of all the gems in a ring. A ring might have 50 points, a ½ carat, in total diamond weight and a 1 carat sapphire. In this example the ring would have a total gem weight of 1 ½ carats.

Chatoyancy:

An effect which resembles the slit eye of a cat caused by reflection of light by parallel fibers, needles or channels in the stone. Most effective in a cabochon cut. Most common is of chrysoberyl.

Choker:

Any necklace designed to be worn tightly around the neck. Generally, this term would apply to any necklace 16 inches or shorter.

Clasp styles:

Barrel clasp: A round or oval solid body fastener which resembles a barrel. The two ends screw into each other.

Box clasp: A type of bracelet or necklace clasp in which the female end is a box and the male end is designed to fix inside the box. 

Lobster clasp: Fastener that resembles the claws of a lobster and opens and closes in a pincher movement.

Safety clasp: A secondary closure (usually on a necklace or bracelet) that prevents the loss of the jewelry in case the primary clasp opens.

Toggle: A jewelry fastener in which a bar can be inserted into a ring to fasten two sides of a piece of jewelry usually the two ends of a bracelet or necklace.

Cocktail Ring:

The term Cocktail Ring is generally applied to any ladies fashion ring that has a combination of small diamonds and/or other gemstones, which are set at varying heights.

Color-Enhanced:

Any treatment process that enhances or changes the color of a gemstone. Common treatments include but are not limited to heat-treating, irradiation, dying, bleaching, and oiling.  

Comfort Fit:

If a ring is concave, or rounded, on the inside to create a more comfortable fit for the owner the ring or shank is often referred to as being Comfort fit.

Crown:

The upper part of a gemstone, between the girdle and the table. 

Cubic Zirconia:

An inexpensive, lab-produced gemstone that resembles a diamond. 

Culet:

A small facet placed at the bottom of the pavilion of a gem. Not all gemstones have a culet, such as a round gem, or in the case of a marquise gem it will taper to a point.

Cultured Pearl:

Natural pearls are created when certain types of mollusks secret nacre around an irritant, which has entered the mollusk without the intervention of man. If a human is involved in the process through the insertion of the irritant then the resulting pearl is considered cultured. Organic gems of calcium carbonate grown within mollusks-- specifically oysters, although in very rare cases, snails have produced pearls. Although the Mohs hardness is only 3-4, they are so compact it is very difficult to crush one. The type of mollusk and the water it is in will determine the color. Colors range from white, cream, golden, pink, silver green, blue and black. Care can preserve pearls for generations. Perfume, perspiration and hair spray are enemies of pearls. The pearl is one of the birthstones for June.

Diamond Grading:

Most commonly known as the four C’s, diamond grading refers to the cut, clarity, color, and carat weight of a diamond.

Cut - To grade for cut, the type, shape proportions, and symmetry as well as outer marks are considered. The grades are self-explanatory: Very Good, Good, Medium, and Poor.

"Cut" is also a term used to refer to the fashioning of a gem. See "Gemstone Cut."

Clarity - "C" is the chemical symbol for diamond ---crystallized carbon C. It has an isometric (cubic) crystal system. It is the hardest mineral on earth, a 10 on the universal Mohs Hardness scale, with a specific gravity of 3.47-3.55. It rates "perfect" on cleavage rating, important to the stonecutters. Cleavage refers to the manner in which the stone's atoms cling together, understanding cleavage is essential when splitting and cutting large stones.

Clarity is the term that describes the degree of freedom from internal or external characteristics, also known as inclusions and blemishes.

F1 (Flawless) - The term used by the GIA (Gemological Institute of America) clarity grade to describe a magnificent diamond totally free of blemishes or "inclusions" under 10x magnification.

IF (Internally Flawless) - GIA clarity grades describes a diamond with no internal characteristics at 10x magnification, but which have minor surface blemishes that do not penetrate the stone.

VVS1 & VVS2 (Very Very Slightly Included) - GIA clarity grades describes a diamond with minute inclusions that are very difficult to see under 10x magnification.

VS1 & VS2 (Very Slightly Included) - GIA clarity grades describing diamonds with minor inclusions ranging from difficult to see, to somewhat easy to see under magnification and on a white background.

SI1 & SI2 (Slightly Included) - GIA clarity grade state describes a diamond with inclusions that are easily recognized under 10x magnification. Stone should be viewed on a white background. Look at the stone from the bottom (pavilion). These inclusions may be visible to the naked eye on a white background.

I1, I2, & I3 (Included) - GIA clarity grades describes a diamond when there are obvious inclusions which may be eye-visible, face-up.

Color - Believe it or not, diamonds are found in all colors. The most prized is colorless, the dazzling white most people associate with diamonds. Most diamonds come in white to yellow to brown. More rarely they have strong colors- pink, green, blue, red, violet, brown, and yellow (canary). These colored diamonds are called "fancy color diamonds" and may bring collectors' prices. For commercial purposes, diamonds are graded from yellowish to white (colorless).

Diamond color grade assesses the absence of color. Diamond color is graded on a scale from D through Z, with D, E and F regarded as colorless.

Light Brown (LTB). These particular diamonds are found in the GIA's n-z range and are of a brownish hue. They have been selected for their attractive appearance and outstanding value.

Top Light Brown (TLB). These particular diamonds are found in the GIA's k-m range and are of a brownish hue. They have been selected for their attractive appearance and outstanding value.

Carat Weight – The weight of a diamond expressed as carats. One carat is equal to approximately 1/5 gram. Carat weight is often expressed as decimals (0.50ct) or fractions (1/2ct).

Read more about the 4 C’s

Diamond Council of America (DCA):

The Diamond Council of America is an organization that provides training, education, and certification for retail jeweler professionals.

Diamond-Cut:

Besides referring to a diamond's cut (see ‘Diamond Grading Cut’ above) this term also refers to a process in which gold is faceted to make it "sparkle."

Diamond Rough:

This is the natural state of diamond when it is recovered from nature; it has not been faceted or polished.

Dispersion:

Dispersion is the splitting of white light into the spectral colors. This is the property which allows properly cut diamonds to convert white light into the rainbow of colors, which are reflected from up to the wearer through the table.

Earring Back Design:

Hinged Earrings - Earrings which are attached to the ear through a loop or post that has a hinge, usually at the bottom or back. The hinge style is generally considered easier to put on and take off than other types of closures. This type of earring is generally for non-pierced ears and is also known as clip earrings.

Lever Back - A type of earring mounting that allows the gemstone to dangle from the earlobes.

Screw Back – If a post of an earring is grooved and the back is applied by screwing it onto the post it is called a screw back.

Friction Back – Most earrings have a post and are secured onto the ear using a back which is pushed onto the post. The back is applied and held on the post through the use of friction.

Earring Design:

Chandelier – Generally a larger earring with a pattern that is narrow at the top and expands to have a wide base. The overall image gives the impression of a chandelier.

Dangles – This is a general term that would include any earring that hangs down and “dangles” from the ear.

Hoops - Earrings designed in a rounded loop from the front to back of the earlobe.

J-Hoops –A form of half-hoop earring, earrings that do not create a complete circle or oval. J-Hoops are unique in that their profile resembles the letter "J".

Jackets – A setting designed to work with solitaire earrings, either diamonds or other gemstones. The solitaire is set into the jacket to create a different presentation.

Stud – Earring which are made up of a single gem in each earring.

Facet:

Most gems are modified from their natural state before they can be set into jewelry. For many gemstones this process includes faceting. Faceting, in the case of diamonds, is the process of creating flat polished surfaces on an item; the resulting surface is called a facet.

Fancy Color Diamond:

Diamonds with natural colors outside the normal market range are classified as Fancy Color diamonds.

Findings:

Pre-manufactured small parts of jewelry such as settings, clasps, and jump rings. 

Flaw:

With respect to gemstones, flaw is a general catch all term used to describe any number of optical or physical properties; these are determined to be negative in nature when viewing the gem. They could include but not limited to the following: carbon spots, internal crystals, clouds, feathers, and even finishing errors in polish or faceting.

Four C’s:

Phrase coined to describe the 4 quality and value considerations of a diamond: cut, color, clarity, and carat weight. See ‘Diamond Grading.’

Read more about the 4 C’s

Fracture Filling:

The process that uses a different substance to fill fractures in a gemstone and thereby strengthening the stone; it is a non-permanent solution. This process is common in emeralds but also occurs with other gemstones.

Freshwater Cultured Pearl:

These pearls are formed in mussels living in freshwater lakes or rivers. Mantle tissue from a mussel is inserted into the mussel rather than a shell bead. Freshwaters are less expensive than their salt-water cousins; they are known for their out-of-round charming shapes and range of colors.

Gemstone:

A naturally occurring mineral that is valuable, rare and often beautiful.

Gemstone Types:

Alexandrite - A very rare stone noted for its color changing abilities. Named for Czar Alexander II, Alexandrite is the most sought after form of chrysoberyl. With a rating of 8 on the Mohs Hardness scale, it is an extremely durable gemstone. Colors are greenish outdoors and reddish to violet under artificial light. Alexandrite is one of the birthstones for June.

Amethyst – A member of the quartz family, Amethyst has a rating of 7 on the Mohs hardness scale, making it an excellent choice for everyday wear. Amethyst color ranges from a clear purple to bluish violet and is the birthstone for February. Legendary powers: brings luck, ensures constancy, protects against magic.

Aquamarine – Aquamarine along with Emerald are the most popular forms of the beryl group. With a rating of 7-8 on the Mohs scale of hardness Aquamarine is a gem which is well suited to everyday use as jewelry. The name translates to "water of the sea" because of the usual color. Semi-precious porous stone ranging in color from light blue to sea green. Increasingly rare, the "synthetic" aquamarine is synthetic spinel, and the color is richer than many natural stones. Aquamarine is the birthstone for March.

Black Star Sapphire - A cabochon cut black sapphire with a 6 ray star. These stones are always heat treated to improve their color.

Blue Star Sapphire Belonging to the corundum family, Blue Star Sapphire is a 9 on the Mohs scale of Hardness which makes it among the most durable of all gemstones. A cabochon cut blue sapphire displaying a 3 ray, 6 point star.

Blue Topaz - A topaz ranging in color from pale blue to bright blue. Most blue topaz is irradiated & heat treated to produce their blue color. Blue Topaz is one of the birthstones for December.

Cats-Eye Chrysoberyl - Display Chatoyancy which is a phenomenon seen in various gems when they are cabochon cut, resulting in a bright single line down the center.

Sri Lankan Sapphire - These deep royal blue sapphires from Sri Lanka, formally Ceylon, are the finest in the world. Fine quality specimens have become rarer and rarer in recent decades. With a hardness of 9 on the Mohs scale of Hardness sapphire jewelry is suitable for everyday wear. Sapphire is the birthstone for September.

Citrine - A semi-precious quartz gemstone, ranging in color from a light yellow to a brilliant orange. Citrine is one of the birthstones for November.

Diamond – Diamonds are composed of pure carbon and diamond is the only Precious gemstone valued for its lack of color. With a 10 on the Mohs scale of hardness, they are the hardest of all known natural substances. Diamond is the birthstone for April.

Emerald – Emeralds, also know as “The Royal gem”, are the most sought after member of the beryl group. Ranging in color from green to bluish-green, emeralds are judged on tone, hue, consistency of color and the clarity of the gemstone, although, generally speaking, color and hue have a greater impact on the value of an emerald then clarity. The green pigment is chrome, and is incomparable in the gem world. Known for its "inclusions" which are not necessarily known as faults, since they are evidence of the genuineness of the stone. Experts refer to these as the emerald's "jardin" --garden. Emerald is the birthstone for May.

Garnet - A group of semi-precious stones ranging in all colors but blue, but the most common and popular colors tend to be deep red. The name comes from Latin for grain, because of the rounded shape of the crystals. Garnet is understood to mean pyrope and almandine, 7-71/2 on the Hardness scale. Garnet is the birthstone for January.

Iolite - A transparent, violet blue, light or yellow gray mineral.  Also know as the water sapphire. 7-71/2 on the Mohs scale. Iolite, which is often considered a substitute for both tanzanite and sapphire, gets its name from the ios the Greek word for violet.

Mother of Pearl - The material obtained from the inside of the shell of a certain large mollusk. The luminescence of Mother of Pearl makes it a beautiful and versatile gem but remember since it is an organic gem it should be worn with care.

Onyx - A quartz mineral (chalcedony) that is usually black. 61/2-7 on the Mohs hardness scale. Ancient talisman against depression.

Opal - Some of the most stunning of the semi-precious stones; luminous and iridescent, frequently with inclusions of many colors. Opals always contain water, and over generations the stone can lose water. Store in moist absorbent cotton to prevent this. Care must be taken with setting. Too much heat will evaporate the water. Opal is one of the birthstones for October.

Pearl - Organic gems of calcium carbonate grown within mollusks-- specifically oysters, although in very rare cases, snails have produced pearls. Although the Mohs hardness is only 3-4, they are so compact it is very difficult to crush one. Colors range from white, cream, golden, pink, silver green, blue and black. The type of mollusk and the water it is in, determines the color. Care can preserve pearls for generations. Perfume, perspiration and hair spray are enemies of pearls. Pearl is one of the birthstone for June.

Peridot - Formerly called "chrysolite" , it is a yellow-green semi-precious stone. Also called olivine. 6-71/2 on the Hardness scale. In Middle Ages used for ecclesiastical purposes. It can burst under great stress and is usually metal foiled. Peridot is the birthstone for August.

Rhodolite Garnet: - A member of the garnet pyrope group 4-5 on the Mohs. Rhodolite Garnets which display strong purples and pinks have become highly sought after.

Ruby - A corundum with the Mohs rating of 9, making it the hardest mineral after diamond. Ruby has no cleavage but has preferred directions of parting. Inclusions are common and not an indication of lower quality. Some rubies when cut en cabochon give a cat's eye or the very desirable asterism-a 6 rayed star which moves over the surface when stone is moved. Color ranges from deep red to reddish brown, if the color of a ruby becomes to light the specimen is called pink sapphire and not ruby. Rubies are one of the most expensive gemstones. Ruby is the birthstone for July.

Sapphire - A corundum with the Mohs rating of 9, making it almost as hard as diamond. Today corundums in all colors except red (red corundum is called ruby) are called sapphires. Also found with the rutile needles making a cats' eye or marvelous 6 rayed star when cut en cabochon. Most popular as a blue stone and the most desired are Kashmir sapphires, although they now come from Burma. In recent years alternative colors of sapphire, particularly pink, white and yellow have become particularly popular. Sapphire is the birthstone for September.

Spinels- Magnesium aluminum oxide with a rating of 8 on the Mohs scale. They occur in all colors, the favorite being a ruby-like red. Star spinels are very rare. It was only recognized as an individual mineral 150 years ago, before that is was thought to be ruby, because it also occurs with it. Some well-known rubies are truly spinels.

Tanzanite - First found in Tanzania East Africa and named for that country by Tiffany & Co.. Mineralogists refer to it as blue zoisite. 61/2 -7 on the Hardness scale. Gorgeous color which in the finest specimens resembles the Kashmir Sapphire, exhibiting a rich royal blue, which is enhanced by heating. A valuable transparent blue-purple stone, and cat's eyes are also found. Tanzanite is one of the birthstones for December.

Tiger’s Eye - Formed from hawk's eye (a finely fibrous quartz aggregate), Tiger's eye has a very distinctive chatoyancy when cut en cabochon, and a very silky luster. Mohs' hardness is 7. A favorite men's gemstone, the rich brown and yellow-gold is unmistakable for anything else.

Tourmaline - 7-71/2 on the Mohs scale. No gemstone has such richness in color variation. There are several varieties: Achroite--nearly colorless -rare; rubellite -pink to red, sometimes with a violet tint. Dravite-yellow brown to dark brown; verdelite-green in all shades; Indigolite-blue inall shades; Siberite-lolac to violet blue; schorl-black, very common. Rarely used for jewelry. Most crystals have various shades. The pink to reddish color tourmaline is one of the birthstones for October.

GIA:

The Gemological Institute of America is the world’s largest and most respected nonprofit institute of gemological research and education.

GIA Inscription:

GIA graded diamonds may have the grading report number laser-inscribed on the stone's girdle. The inscription is extremely small and generally only visible when viewed under magnification. This number also matches the GIA grading report.

Girdle:

The space on a cut gem where the crown and the pavilion facets meet is referred to as the girdle. The girdle is often polished and can vary in depth. Some grading reports will reference girdle depth, as it can have an impact of the overall eye appeal of a gemstone.

Gold Plate:

A base metal that is electro-plated with gold or an alloy of gold. Also known as gold flash, gold finish or gold tone. 

Gold-Filled:

A layer of gold adhered or bonded to metal, where the weight of gold must be at least 1/20 of the total weight or better and must be 10kt or greater. 

Hardness:

When used in the context of gems, the term hardness refers to the ability of a gem to resist scratching. Hardness is often expressed using the Mohs scale, which rates gems on a scale of 1 to 10; 1 being equal to talc (baby powder) and 10 being equal to diamonds.

Heat Treated:

The now common process of heating a stone to a high temperature, in order to enhance the color or clarity.

Insert:

This is a trade reference to a double ring, sometimes ornamented with gems, with a space between to accommodate another ring in its center. Most often used as ring guards for a valuable center gemstone ring.  

Loupe:

A small magnifying lens used to view diamond and jewelry, usually 10x magnification.

Mandrel:

Tapered, cylindrical metal device with measurement marks used at a jewelry store to measure a ring's size.

Melee:

Small stones less than 1/4 ct in weight.

Metal Color:  

Metal color results when mixing gold with other alloys.

Yellow Gold - Gold that has been alloyed with a mix of 50% copper and 50% silver.

White Gold - Usually an alloy of yellow gold, copper, nickel, and zinc that results in a white colored metal. Since this is yellow gold alloyed to appear "white," it has a slightly yellowish tint until it is plated with rhodium, which gives it a bright white finish.

Two-Tone - A piece of jewelry with two different types of metal.

Rose Gold - Gold that has been alloyed with a mix of 90% copper and 10% silver producing gold with a pink tinge.

Metal content and gold measure:

Combined substances are alloyed to produce a type of metal used for jewelry.

Base Metal - Any non-porous metal.

Plated -The process of covering one metal with another metal using electricity.

Solid - Entirely of one metal or containing the minimum alloy necessary to impart hardness.

Karat - Abbreviated 'kt', is a method of measuring the amount of pure gold in an alloy.  These proportions are 10, 14, 18, 22, or 24. 100% is equivalent to 24 kts -pure gold. To calculate the amount of precious metal, divide the karat number by 24. For example, 14 kt divided by 24 equals 58.3% gold. Gold is commonly sold as 10kt, 14kt, 18kt and 24kt. Gold is a soft metal, in its pure state it can be scratched with a fingernail. That's why rings and other daily-wear jewelry are generally made of 14 and 18kt gold, rather than 24kt.

Metal Finish:

Florentine - An etched metal finish, similar to satin but with a noticeably deeper etching in the gold.

Polished - Most popular finish on gold, giving it a smooth finish and a bright shine.

Satin - A widely used finish on gold, achieved by dulling he surface to create a silk like luster instead of a shiny surface.

Metal Type:

The following are the common types of metal used in jewelry making:

Gold - A yellow, precious metal that is mined from the earth. Gold is very malleable, and is often alloyed with other metals to add strength. Gold’s purity is often expressed in karats, with 24 karats being equal to pure gold. In countries using the metric system, gold purity is expressed as a percentage; 14 karat gold would be expressed as 565 as it is 56.5% pure gold. The type and color of the alloys used with gold can also create variations in color, which is how white, rose, green or even black gold is created.

Palladium – A member of the Platinum group, palladium is naturally white and extremely durable. It is lighter than platinum, whiter than white gold, and hypo allergenic as well has being significantly less expensive then platinum. In recent years, Palladium has gained a large following in the jewelry community because of its special properties.

Platinum - A very heavy, durable metal that is usually 90% to 95% pure, and is alloyed with 5% to 10% of another precious metal.  It is known for its distinctive cool, white color.

Silver (fine Silver) - .999 or 99.9% pure silver, occurring naturally in the earth. In this form, it is too soft to be used in jewelry.

Stainless Steel - A durable metal typically used in creating watch cases and bands. A key element to look for when selecting water sport watches.

Sterling Silver - A mixture of 925 parts fine silver and 75 parts copper.

Titanium - A very strong, ultra-light metal which is also hypoallergenic and resistant to corrosion. In recent years, titanium has become one of the premier alternative metals and is commonly used in watches, bracelets and even wedding bands.

Tungsten carbide – An extremely strong metal, tungsten carbide is scratch and tarnish resistant. It is one of the heavier, denser, alternative metals in common use. Tungsten carbide is popular in men’s jewelry and wedding bands.

Mohs Scale:

The usual scale of hardness used to measure how resistant a substance is to being scratched. The scale was invented by Friedrich Mohs.

Mother's Ring:

A ring set with the birthstone of each child or grandchild, usually a straight line, but increasingly in cluster settings. Worn by mothers and grandmothers.

Multi-Stone:

A piece of jewelry with several stones grouped together, creating the illusion of one large center stone.

Nacre:

A smooth, hard, crystalline substance composed of microscopic crystals of calcium carbonate. A mollusk secretes this substance and uses it to coat an irritant that has become lodged in its soft inner body. As long as an irritant remains in the oyster's body, it will continue to secrete a layer of nacre around it. Over time the irritant will become completely covered in nacre. The end result becomes a pearl.

Natural Pearl:

Natural pearls result from nature inserting an irritant into a mollusk and the mollusk secreting a natural coating, known as nacre, covering the irritant. These are extremely rare and nearly impossible to find today. Most are cultured pearls, invoked by a man-made introduction into the mollusk and cultivated over time.

Necklace Accoutrements:

Pendant - A hanging ornament that may appear on a necklace, earrings or a pin.

Locket - A pendant (heart-shaped or otherwise) that can open up and hold a small object such as a photo.

Slide - An ornament often decorated with diamonds or gemstones that slides upon a necklace.

Solitaire - Although usually referring to a ring with a single stone, this refers to any piece of jewelry with one important gemstone; it can have supporting stones on the sides.

Sticks - A style in fashion jewelry that has long straight lines resembling sticks.

Oil Treated:

A treatment usually used on emeralds to prevent numerous inclusions from detracting from the beauty of the stone. Often used on opals to prevent cracking.

Orient:

A term referring to the luster of a pearl.

Pavilion:

The lower part of a cut gemstone, below the girdle.

Pearl Shape:

Baroque - An irregular-shaped pearl.

Mabe - A large, one-sided, cultured pearl which has formed on the concave shell of the oyster and is flat on one side.

Off Round - Any pearl that is not "round," but has a slightly irregular shape.

Round - A perfectly round pearl.

Point:

Unit of weight, generally used in reference to diamond carat weight. 1 point is equivalent to 0.01 (1/100) carats.

Post:

The metal stem of a pierced earring.

Prong:

A narrow piece of metal that is folded over the girdle of a stone to secure it in a setting.

Proportion:

The relationship between the diamond's angles and parts. Refers to facet angles and the relationship between the crown (portion above the girdle) and pavilion (portion below the girdle).

Rhodium:

A white metallic element of the platinum group that is harder, whiter, and more reflective than platinum. It is widely used for plating; white gold jewelry is often plated in rhodium to give it a higher level of whiteness.

Ring Guard:

A ring or rings worn on each side of a solitaire, also sometimes fastened together at the bottom. Also known as an insert.

Scintillation:

Refers to tiny flashes that occur when light hits a flat surface.

Setting Styles:

Bar - A setting style where each setting is held in by a bar, shared between each stone.

Basket - A fancy setting of various shapes with numerous side piercing, that provide a basket work or a lacy appearance.

Bezel - A style setting in which the girdle of the stones is completely encircled by and set flush with the metal.

Cathedral - A high profile ring setting that arches when seen from the side.

Channel - A type of setting where diamonds or gemstones are set in a metal “channel” and are held in place.

Cluster - A group of closely set stones.

Half Bezel - A type of setting in which the girdle of the stones is partially encircled on two sides and set flush with the metal.

Invisible – Normally square or rectangle diamonds set side by side in a metal framework. Because the metal does not show above the diamond, it appears that there is no metal holding the diamonds in place.

Pave - (pronounced pav-ay) Covering an entire area of metal with small stones set very close together and secured with beads of metal. Setting an entire area of metal

Prong - A setting consisting of a series of prongs or claws to hold a stone. Such settings usually consist of 4 or 6 prongs.

Tension - Opposite ends of a setting hold a stone by the force of tension, making it appear it is floating.

Tiffany - A high pronged setting for an engagement ring, commonly used today. The prongs should be checked by your jeweler every 6 months.

Semi-precious Stones:

An obsolete term used to describe gemstones which are not diamond, emerald, sapphire, or ruby. This term is often misleading as many "semi-precious" gemstones are extremely valuable, and rarer than precious stones.

Shank:

The part of a ring which encircles the finger and to which the setting for stones is attached.

Solder:

Pronounced /saw-der/, a metal alloy used when joining two metal surfaces.

Stone Shape:

Baguette - A simple rectangular step-cut, primarily in diamonds, sapphires, and rubies.

Briolette - A tear-drop shaped stone with facets all around. This type of stone makes a nice pendant or earrings.

Cushion – A square shape with rounded edges.

Emerald - Stone cut into a rectangular or square shape, with rectangular facets arranged in rows that look like flights of stairs.

Heart - A stone cut into the shape of a heart.

Marquise - A fancy gemstone cut; long, and pointed at both ends.

Oval - An elongated circle.

Pear - A teardrop shaped stone.

Princess - A square cut stone or rectangular with triangular and kite shaped facets.

Radiant - A stone cut into a rectangular shape with the corners clipped unlike a princess cut which has pointed corners.

Round - This shape gives maximum brilliance from most diamonds.

Trillion - A stone cut into the shape of a triangle.

Synthetic:

A manmade, substitute stone which has the same chemical, physical and optical qualities as its naturally occurring counterpart. Many are extremely valuable. Synonymous with lab-created gemstones.

Table:

The largest facet at the top of the crown of a gemstone. It is generally parallel to the girdle. 

Trio Set:

Three rings in a matched set; includes an engagement and wedding band for the bride and also a coordinating wedding band for the groom.

Ultra-sonic Cleaner:

This machine cleans jewelry with sound waves and is standard equipment in most fine jewelry stores. But is not safe for all stones. Click here to read more about jewelry care and cleaning.

Watch:

See our Watch Glossary